Day 20: Bangkok to Seattle

I only had until noon or so until I needed to pack things up and check out of the hotel.  Did not feel like walking around in the heat too much, so I just went back to MBK and bought some more gifts for family and friends.  In the states, if a store in a mall is not open by the set time, they get fined.  At MBK, only 50% of the stores were open 15 minutes after the stated opening time.  Punctuality is not a priority to them, I suppose.

I was supposed to take the hotel tuk tuk service to the BTS Chitlom station, but the one day that I actually need it....the tuk tuk runs into problems.  So, must walk to the station with my completely stuffed backpack.  Left around 1, and connected to the Phaya Thai station's airport rail link city line.  I love the system, so easy!

After checking in luggage and immigration, I had a little over an hour to spare before the flight boarded.  I just walked around the airport, taking notice of the expensive brand name stores that are all along the main corridor.  I don't see many people in the stores.  I wonder how they manage to stay in business.

Meal on Eva Air.  I like noodles.

The first leg of the flight to Taipei was short, just a few hours.  I watched Breaking Dawn and start Tower Heist.  The stretch from Taipei to Seattle was more stuffy and dry-aired than usual.  The guy next to me elbowed my shoulder three times, and didn't even acknowledge it.  Jerk.

Now, back in Seattle.  What a drastic change in weather.  90s to 50s just like that.

My SE Asia trip was very eye-opening.  I see how much in a bubble I am in, and the many things that I take for granted.  I envy my cousins in Malaysia who speak 5 languages/dialects.  One day...

Day 19: Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Chinatown

Joe joes in the morning!  Yum.  After breakfast, took the BTS to the Phaya Thai station, followed by the tourist boat up the Chao Phraya River.

The boat system is confusing to me, very behind the ease of the BTS.  I wasn't sure if I was even on the tourist boat, as there were no announcements regarding the stops.  You have to just look for the signs on the pier.  Grand Palace was supposed to be at pier N* (star) but it was actually at N9.  And there did not seem to be an organized ticketing process.  While I did purchase the day pass, no one checked that I had paid.

It was around 10:00am when I arrived at Grand Palace.  Wow.  Hoards of people.  Thousands and thousands.  Before I could make my way to pay the entrance fee, I was called over to the clothing rental area because I was not wearing full length pants.  It was strange though, because I later saw quite a few others who had capris on.  Anyways, I borrowed a sarong from their office.

I debated about joining a free, English speaking tour, but then I saw that a group consists of 50+ people, so changed my mind.  As I passed other tour groups, differentiated by their nationality, it was interesting to see all the Thai guides speaking the languages fluently.  Thai guides speaking Russian, German, everything.

The temples at Grand Palace are beautiful.  The structures contain intricate details, full of gems and jewels.  The patterns were colorful, and vary by temple.

Grand Palace

Close up of details.  Look at those gems!

I also enjoyed the weapons museum.  Many types of old weapons: muskets, bayonettes, spears, etc.  Its crazy thinking about how some of the huge rifles were actually used.  How did one manage to carry it around?

At one point, I was inside looking at a Buddha, and saw a lot of people taking photos even though there was a sign not to.  So, I took a photo too, but a guard came over and forced me to delete it.

Model of Angor Wat.  My finger is included for scale.

The model of Angor Wat was great. A lot of small details.

A Midas-like statue!

After Grand Palace, I seeked refuge in an AC'ed restaurant.  Went somewhere along the way to Wat Po, and had shrimp pad thai and a refreshing watermelon shake.  I love all the fresh, cheap shakes in Thailand.

Wat Pho is just down the same street, and the walk there goes by fast because there are a lot of street vendors.  Its interesting seeing what the  Thai vendors are selling.  Even random goods are high in demand. Like lightly used pens and highlighters, and used, old cell phones.

Wat Pho has a much more relaxed feel than Grand Palace.  There are not nearly as many people here.  There is a lot of shaded sitting areas, and breezes come through often.  A few cats and dogs are taken care of here.

Large, reclining Buddha.  He must be comfortable.

The reclining buddha was amazing.  So large!  Detailed patterns on his feet, and his hair.

Most travel sites recommend getting a massage here, where Thai traditional massage is taught.  I was really considering this, since of course my feet hurt, but the prices are much higher here.  1/2 hr of traditional Thai massage = 260 THB, 1 hr of foot massage = 420 THB.

It was hard to remember where I was at times because of the square, symmetrical layout.

Lots of Buddha.

Chinatown is also walking distance from Wat Pho, although around 15 minutes.  And alas, on the walk, a transportation guy tried to scam me.  I was waiting for when this would happen, after reading up on how common this is.  I was looking at my map, and he came up and asked what I was looking for.  He said that Chinatown's night market is not open until 6pm (it was currently 3pm), and that there won't be anything going on there if I went now.  He suggested that to kill time, I should visit Wat something, Wat somethingelse, and the Expo Center, where today is the last day of a make-believe sale.  Even though I said no thank you, he proceeded to wave down a tuk tuk, in which he would of course receive commission if I ended up going with the tuk tuk.  I was shaking my head to the tuk tuk, but the other guy continued showing the tuk tuk where to take me.  I pulled the map out of their hands, said no thank you again, and left.

I've had mixed feelings towards the locals I've encountered.  By now, a couple people have tried to scam me, but some other locals have been so helpful.  When I was heading towards Chinatown, a shop owner suggested that I take a easier, straight-shot route.  And he was right, very easy!  Another woman was kind in helping me cross the street.  There were so many cars, and I was just waiting, but she pretty much escorted me.

Along Pahurat Rd.  Look, tourists ahead!

Anyways, Chinatown.  Walking along Pahurat Rd was neverending.  A continuous stretch of street vendors.  I would enter a shop, and then not remember which way I was supposed to resume going.  I bought a purse that actually wasn't that cheap.  Oh well.

The next phase of Chinatown was when I walked along Yaowarat.  Such a loud, large, busy street.  I found a jerky store, and the employee spoke Cantonese!  That was a nice surprise.

And the transformation began.  As dinner time was approaching, the retail stalls were closing up, and food carts began rolling out.  My camera battery died around this point, so that was very unfortunate.  It was so interesting to see such a transition.  It became a new place, a food central, with fruit carts galore.  I wanted to eat something other than Pad Thai.  There was a food stall that was extremely popular with the locals.  A long line, full tables.  But, I was hesitant to try what looked like pork intestine in the soup.  And, the cart was right on the main road.  Instead, I ate at a cart a little further in, noodles with crispy pork and pork stomach.  Although, I did not each much because it was too spicy.

Yaowarat Rd.

I was so caught up in looking around and people watching that I had to rush to catch the last boat that was covered in my tourist pass.  Again, I found the boat system difficult to understand.

Eventually made it back....and got another foot massage at Chang's :). Great again.

I'm glad I experienced Chinatown, it is so different from the commercialized area I am staying in.  Tourists are only seen every now and then.



Last day in Thailand tomorrow...

Unrelated photo of view from hotel pool.  Awesome.

Day 18: MBK, Siam Square, Platinum Fashion Mall

Today's hotel breakfast was impressive.  There was a huge selection, offered in the hotel's restaurant.  Noodles, stir fried veggies, fried rice, eggs prepared as you like, salad, cheese, fruit, much more.

I took the morning easy, sitting at the rooftop pool area and admiring the view of the city.  Did not leave for the day of shopping until 10:30 or so.

Took the BTS to the National Stadium stop.  MBK is connected to the skytrain via the Tokyu department store.  MBK is a large mall, but a market!  Like a street market but with AC.  There is less bargaining here though compared to Chatachuk market.  I bought clothes, accessories, gifts.

 

 

Inside MBK

View of MBK from BTS overpass

Next, I walked to Siam Square -- such a great decision!  There are just handfuls of tourists, but packed with Thai shoppers.  Mainly teen to young adult women.  There are alleyways of shops, all for great deals.  I made lots of purchases here.  I noticed that a lot of the clothing sold in Bangkok are too small...all for the petite Thai women.

Shops in the alley of Siam Square

Outside view of Siam Square

Day 17: Krabi to Bangkok - Chatuchak Market

Was picked up at 7:20am in a minivan with only one other passenger.  My aloe vera got taken away at the airport.  My poor sunburned and heat-rashed skin.

The plane ride to Bangkok was short, a little over an hour.  There were three crying babies though.  So the time went by slower.

Looking down at the entrance to Chatachuk.  Ah so many people!

From the Bangkok airport, I took the skytrain to the city, where I then connected with the large skytrain transportation system, BTS.  The Chitlom station is around 10 min walk from the hotel.  Convenient enough...but I don't enjoy the walk after a day out and hurting feet.  I arrived at the hotel earlier than the check in time, so I left my luggage there and took the BTS to the Mo Chit station.  Chatachuk Market!  Geez..The most crowded place so far in my Singapore-Malaysia-Thailand run.  At times, I could not even walk.

I had no idea where to start.  It was so overwhelming, and it was too hot.  And I've been uncomfortable since last night when my ear became congested, and has not "popped" back to normal yet.  It is hard getting used to hearing from one ear only.

Squirrels of some sort for sale!  Um, please don't mind the NO PHOTO signs.

Before I began exploring the market, I had lunch.  Pad See Ew for only 50 THB.  Then, the maze began.  Arts, ceramics, pillow and bed linens, clothing, accessories, home decor, pets...so much.  I was planning on buying a lot, but it ended up being one of those cases where I become too overwhelmed with everything.  I ended up just buying a headband!  And beverages.

It took me so long to find the pet section.  I of course would not leave the market without seeing it.  Puppies!  Obviously the whole business of selling pets at the market is terrible, but I will still just look.  All the puppy retailers would not allow the animals to lick you.  Perhaps the were concerned about germs being ingested.  There were also a few kittens.  Bunnies, although not in dresses, and guinea pigs.  The most interesting were the tiny flying squirrels, and some other variation of a squirrel.  They were on leashes, and one was wearing a little beanie.

Another squirrel/chipmunk variation...It likes the pink leash I'm sure.

Central World mall.  Too many floors.

After walking around for four hours, I took the BTS to the Siam station, and walked to Central World for dinner.  Central World is a gigantic shopping complex, 7 stories high.  Although, I will probably find the other malls are large like this as well.  I did not do much shoppingm just wanted to eat and finally check in the hotel.

The food court is interesting.  You are issued a card that keeps track of your food purchases, eventually handing your card to the cashier for them to scan.

Walked a while to get back home, but plenty of other people walking around as well.  My feet hurt...got a blister today.  Tomorrow will hit the malls for some actual shopping!

Day 16: 9 Islands

Our old, not-properly-functioning boat.

Today started off not so great, but ended in an awesome way.  I wanted to double check that the 9 Islands Sunset Tour provided snorkels and life jackets, so I gave them a call.  I was also told, at least I thought I was being told, that I would be picked up from the hotel at 10:30, not 10:00 as the travel agency had told me.  I waited until 11, and finally gave them a call.  There was some confusion -- the guide thought I was going to walk to the beach area.  So, he came and picked me up then.  But, apparently right after I got picked up, another employee came by and tried to pick me up.  In any case, we ended up at Noparathara beach, running behind schedule already.

The tour guide, I think his name was Hop, told me that there were 13 people going on the tour...but when we departed, there were just 7 of us.  The Australian couple I met last night, a group of three other Australians, a woman from the UK, and myself.

The boat did not look like a longtail, but it also did not look like a speedboat.  Something in between.

Poda Island.  No good for snorkeling.

Our first stop was Poda Island.  I tried snorkeling here, but the waters were not clear.  The beach was mainly for swimming and lounging around.  There weren't too many crowds.

Next, we visited Tup Island.  Here, our trip really took a bad turn.  To visit the national park, each person must pay an entrance fee.  The tour price already indudes the fee though.  But...as we were approaching the island, Hop claimed that he forgot the money, and asked if he could borrow money (2500 THB) from us, which he would pay back after we got to Ao Nang.  Um, no.  Some of us considered cutting the tour short.  In the end, Hop said it was no problem.  I think he arranged to pay the Thai park employees later on, which he should have done in the first place and not ask us.

Tup Island.  No chance to lounge in the waters though because
of our weed-smoking, ill-prepared tour guide.

Hop offered us lunch, but many declined his offer.  I felt bad for him though, if no one were to eat the food, so a few of us tried it.  Veggies were good actually.

We continued on.  Chicken Island was seen, but we just passed by and took photos from the boat.

The 4 Islands (but counts as three islands for the trip) offered some awesome snorkeling.  Clear waters, numerous varieties of fish.  I cannot even count how many types I saw...huge blue parrot fish, schools of striped fish, with a separate school of baby fish, angel fish...it was amazing.

Our 7th island was Deang Island.  This island is not very memorable to me.  Sometime around this time, I got seasick and threw up :(. I ruined the nice waters!

Hong Island was the 8th stop, and it was amazing.  When we arrived, the beach was deserted!  There were two sections of beach, one where we arrived, and another Maya Bay-like beach to the side.  It was stunning.  I did not snorkel, was told the waters were not clear enough.  The cliffs surrounding this secluded spot were tall and beautiful.  The waters calm and pristine.  The sand was fine, although many seashells and rocks are within the mixture.  Eventually, a longtail with a handful of tourists arrived also, and we left shortly after.

Thanbok Khoranee National Park at Hong

The 9th island was Lading Island, where we arrived as the sun was setting.  This spot was small, and did not seem well known to the public.  We were the ony tourist boat....and were interrupting a private celebration, perhaps a honeymoon.  They had set up a candlelit dinner, with a chef and other employees helping.  We felt a little bad to be hanging around during their romantic night.

Beautiful sunset on the way back to Ao Nang

Hop cooked dinner for us on the boat, rice with tomyum soup.  Was very good.  Then, the highlight of the tour -- night snorkeling with luminescent plankton!  I don't even know where he took us...but there were two locations.  The first, I did not go in the water, but could see slight green sparkles when the other tourists moved their arms and legs.  The second spot, I had to jump in.  And it was unforgettable.  The plankton here seemed brighter.  Maybe it was just darker here or something.  It was amazing, anytime you moved, green sparkles would light up all around you.  Looking underwater, the plankton reminded me of firecrackers.  They were so vibrant.  I wished I had a waterproof camera.

Made it back to the hotel at 9 something, so it really was an entire day trip.  I am so tired...but have to pack up for tomorrow's departure to Bangkok!

Day 15: Phi Phi Don & Phi Phi Ley

Our speedboat.  Vroom vroom

Today was the Phi Phi islands tour.  I got picked up around 9:00am and was driven to Nopparat Thara Beach.  I was confused because I booked the tour with Starlight Travel, but the tour guide was from Ao Nang Photo.  I guess Starlight works with this company for most of their tours.

There were around 30 people going, mostly Europeans.  It was still too large of a group for my preference, but it  is actually considered one of the smaller tours -- some boats had 50 or more people.  I rushed to the tour guide and managed to get a seat in the front of the speedboat.  I was worried about my motion sickness kicking in, so I sucked on ginger candies.  I was fine, except for the times the boat was just sitting thee, waiting to depart.  A lot of rocking around.

Bamboo Island.  Notice the fine sand!

Bamboo Island was the first stop.  The waters were clear, sand was fine.  When we arrived, there were just a few boats.  More showed up as we were leaving.  Snorkeling was allowed on one side, swimming on the other.  The total time here was 40 min, which actually goes by very quickly.  The downside of packaged tours!

We passed by Viking Cave.  So many boats were crowded around the small area.




I think the next stop was Lohsamah Bay, although we did not get off the boat.  The waters were beautiful, and the tall cliffs hid the lagoon from the outside.

Lohsamah Bay (I think).  Go away many tourist boats!

Jumping photo with Malaysian friends at Maya Bay!

Then, the main attraction for many -- Maya Bay. It was packed with tourists, but you could still see the beauty of the clear and emerald green waters.  The sand seemed the softest and most powder-like here.  I could stay here forever...would love to go back without all the crowds.  I ran into my Malaysian friends from the plane!  What a coincidence.

The monkeys of Monkey Bay were not to be seen.  They probably were all fed and full by the time we arrived.

Lunch was at Phi Phi Don, where Tonsai Bay is located.  The restaurant is reserved for all tour groups, and is buffet style.  Hoards of people here.  The food selection was small, white rice, a rice-noodle combo, veggies, a soup, fried chicken, watermelon.

Tonsai Bay

I walked around and looked at the shops.  They are all pretty much the same as any other shops along the beach.  Tonsai Bay has a lot of large rocks, but the waters looked nice and emerald green and blue.

I went snorkeling a couple times during the day, although I do not remember where exactly.  Maybe Maya Bay and somewhere else.  Lots of fish.  I was just happy that I could experience snorkeling at all, well, at least with a life jacket.  My first experience snorkeling was a failure when I went to Hawaii a long time ago, so this time was my first successful time!

Pineapple fried rice.  Maybe I should have also eaten the pineapple.

After coming back to Ao Nang, I went to the shops at the beachfront to look into what tour I should join tomorrow.  I met a Korean- Australian couple in a tour shop, and we booked a tour together to get a discount.  The 9 Islands Sunset Snorkeling Tour for 900 THB.  We had dinner at some Thai restaurant along the beachfront, 210 THB for pineapple fried rice and a drink.

Long tiring day...another one to come tomorrow!

Day 14: Ao Nang - SmartCook, Ao Phra Nang, Railay

The day started off with breakfast provided by the hotel.  They offer a fairly large selection of food - pancakes, eggs, sausage (hot-dog-like), bacon, breads, croissants, pastries, fruit.

My first dishes: Pad Thai and Hot & Sour Prawn Soup

I was picked up at 9:00am for the cooking class with SmartCook.  I was the only student, so it was a private class just for me.  My teacher was "Bunny".  She is young, and very nice, offering me encouragement when I chopped slow, and told me so many tidbits of information about the ingredients.  I should not have eaten that much breakfast...I couldn't finish the dishes I made.  The dishes: Pad Thai,  hot & sour prawn soup, banana spring rolls, papaya salad, green curry paste, followed by green curry chicken.  The banana spring rolls were particularly easy.  Will have to make these when I get back home.

Next, I bought a longtail ticket to Ao Phra Nang, 100 THB each way.  I only had to wait 5 minutes for the longtail to have enough people (6 person minimum).  The ride was only 15 minutes or so, and I was not at all affected by the motions of the boat.

Ao Phra Nang

As I stepped off the boat, the first thing I notice is the powder soft, fine sand.  Almost as if I am walking on a comfortable tempurpedic mattress along the beach.  The water near the shore did not look too clear, although the waters further out were an improvement.  When I arrived around 1:30pm, there were a lot of tourists.  But, that did not at all compare to the number of tourists within the next hour, when the large tour groups from Barracuda Tours came in.  I spent my time sitting on the shore, where the waves just managed to reach and pass me.  As I sat there watching the water, I couldn't help but think about the research I would have pursued.  I saw the traveling waves come close to shore, some breaking, others smoothly rolling up the shore.  Its a nice reminder of the power of mathematics.

Longtail selling food & beverages

Along the beach, some longtails sell food, fruit, and beverages.  I got a mango shake for 40 THB, freshly made.  Yum.  And a couple spring rolls for 40 THB also. 

I walked to the end of Phra Nang, and reached the shrine...offerings were made to the drowned princess Phra Nang.

Shrine of offerings at Phra Nang...

After a good two and a half hours at Phra Nang, I walked to Railay East.  Actually, I thought I was heading to Railay West, so I guess the map I had in my head was all wrong.  Railay East is not meant for swimming or snorkeling.  The waters are rather murkey, and large mangroves grow here.  Railay East is great for rock climbing, though.  Despite the non-clear waters, the cliffs and rocks were still beautiful.  Railay East's lack of tourist bombardment makes its natural setting very nice.

Railay East

Monkeys!

Eventually, I found a path that led to Railay West.  Along the way, I passed a monkey tree...A giant tree with monkeys all over it.  I was very fond of the babies, there were quite a few of them.  Some young children were feeding the babies, and having the monkeys climb onto their arms.  Not sure that's such a good idea.

Railay West

Railay West is very beautiful.  I arrived here around 4:30pm, so the huge crowds were no longer, and it was nice to see large stretches of white sand.  There were not any boats selling food here, and many of the loungers had congregated on the far side of the beach.  I did not stay very long here.

After taking the longtail boat back, I got dinner at Ao Nang Boat Noodle.  It is located a bit further from the beach, around 10 minutes walk from the hotel.  60 THB for noodles, soup, and thai iced tea.  The boat noodle dish consists of a spicy broth, and thin noodles.  The layout of the restaurant is interesting, because a chef prepares meals from a longtail in the front.

Boat Noodle dinner  from Ao Nang Boat Noodle

Walking around the whole day has a toll on my feet...so I feel fully justified to get another massage.  This time, I went to PU Body Scrub and Massage, a shop just near the hotel.  250 THB for an hour of foot reflexology, which included leg, shoulder and head.  This place is not for those looking for a quiet, calming ambiance.  It is strictly for the massage.  The massage was good though, pressure was good.  The techniques were similar to those from yesterday.  I sat next to a bunch of Singaporeans, who I've seen at the same restaurant as me, and on the shuttle bus. 

I close my day by treating myself to Swenson's ice cream.  I'm not sure where Swenson's is from, but I haven't seen it in WA.  Ice cream is wonderful.